2000 Ford Expedition 5.4L Triton V8 Cranks but won’t start, finally solved. I I bought a noid light set and a fuel pressure gauge, ordered fuel injectors, change the oil filter too and even used Foxwell NT520.
Car model: 2000 Ford Expedition 5.4L Triton V8
Cranks but won’t start
A few years ago the battery was replaced in it after sitting up maybe 5-6 years at the time. I figured it wasn’t getting fuel so I knew the issue was probably the fuel pump.
Also, thoroughly cleaned and degreased the fuel tank.
What I did:
I bought a noid light set and a fuel pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure and fuel injector electrical connections but they all checked out fine. Fuel pressure at the rail was around 40psi. All I can think to do next is replace all 8 fuel injectors in case they are gummed up.
I figure it’s getting spark since it does start when using starter spray. It seems to be an issue of not getting fuel so I think I’ll just go ahead and change the injectors. This weekend I’ll remove them and see what kind of condition they’re in.
I took a chance and went ahead and ordered fuel injectors for it and installed them on the 12th. Only took about an hour to replace them and they were very gummed up with the same gook from the fuel pump and fuel tank.
After I installed the new ones it fired right up. I spent this past weekend draining and flushing the cooling system and I also changed the oil. It’s running pretty good so far with a little hesitation at times. I added some seafoam to the gas tank to help clean out the rest of that gook because I saw there was a little left in the fuel rail after installing the new injectors.
I did change the oil filter too during the oil change. Someone else mentioned to check the brakes too.The SES light is on but when I checked it it says something about Keep Alive Memory too low or something. Comes on about 10 seconds after every start and my Foxwell NT520 won’t automatically pull the VIN and identify the vehicle either. I have to manually select my vehicle when using it. I guess I have to do a PCM reset???
Is there anything else recommend doing to it?
You should LOAD test battery and alternator as any weak / low cells can cause a multitude of sins . Also check ALL earths / grounds .Check this , might help , might not .
“Some of what has been posted is not entirely accurate and there is a much faster method to clear the KAM (Keep Alive Memory).
The KAM can be reset using a capable scan tool in a few seconds. If you don’t have a capable scan tool disconnecting the PCM (computer) for 10 seconds will also work. Another method is to remove the positive battery cable and connect a jumper to the positive battery cable end to ground for 10 seconds.
If you leave the battery disconnected for a long enough period it will reset the KAM provided the back-up power supply is discharged. The backup power supply is mainly used for the air bags, but it will feed other modules for a period of time also.
It should also be noted that anytime you load a new tune into the PCM the KAM is reset also.
It normally takes about 50 to 100 miles for the PCM’s adaptive strategy to relearn. When you 1st start the car after resetting the KAM you should let it idle a couple minutes with everything turned of in park/neutral. Then turn the a/c on for a few mins, and after that put the vehicle in gear for a few mins if you’ve got an auto trans. When your done relearning the idle strategy, drive the vehicle like you normally would. I do not recommend driving it in a manner out of the ordinary at this time. ”
Credits to @ Don RTR
Add: How to Troubleshoot a Ford Expedition That Won’t Start (this port from itstillruns.com)
When troubleshooting a Ford Expedition for a no-start condition, the first objective is to determine in which system the failure lies. Looking at the problem from a technician’s point of view is the most expeditious method. A technician will immediately go for the most common problems first. The possibilities are unlimited when taken into context–the electrical system, the ignition system, fuel system, computer or components within its sphere of influence (of which there are many), the security system and a mechanical failure in the engine.
Check the starting circuit. The starter must engage the flexplate gears and rotate the engine in order for it to start. This happens when the key is in the full, forward start position. If no noise is emitted when the key is in the start position, the problem area has been located. If this is not the case and the starter operates, the testing procedures for the starter circuit can be ignored.
Lift the hood and inspect the battery for any irregularities such as corrosion, loose or broken terminals and repair as necessary. If any of the problems to be covered are found defective, repair and retry the starter. Continue only if the problem has not been corrected.
Check the battery voltage with the voltmeter. Connect the red voltmeter lead to the positive terminal and the black lead to the negative terminal. The voltage should read 12.5 to 12.75. If the voltage is one or more volts lower, the battery is discharged or has a bad cell. Charge the battery and retest. If the voltage rises to the appropriate numbers, try the starter once more by having a helper turn the key to start while you watch the voltmeter. If the engine starts or if it doesn’t, the important thing is the reading on the voltmeter when the key is in start. If the voltage drops to below 10.5 volts, the battery is bad and needs to be replaced. If the voltage does not drop and the engine starts, check the voltmeter again. The voltage should now be 13.8 to 14.5 volts if the alternator is good. If the voltage is wrong, replace the alternator. If the battery voltage is correct and the engine still does not try to start, the starter circuit is at fault.
Check the fuse and the relay in the fuse relay box on the driver’s fenderwell. If the fuse and relay are OK, check the power to the starter solenoid by connecting the voltmeter’s black lead to a good ground and using the red lead to probe the terminal where the large diameter red wire is attached on the starter solenoid. If there is no voltage, the wire between the solenoid and battery is bad. If there is voltage, pull the small wire off the solenoid. Probe this wire connector as the helper turns the key to start. If there is voltage, the starter is bad. If there is no voltage, the ignition switch is bad.
Check to see if there is a computer system failure by turning the key to the run position with the engine off. Plug the code scanner into the OBD port on the left underside of the steering column. Press the key marked “Read” and the scanner will display any failure codes for the faults it has recognized. The code is a letter followed by four numbers. The letter designates the location and the numbers the fault. Cross-reference the code with the accompanying code sheet and a description of the fault will be presented. Correct the fault and try again.
Check the fuel system. Open the fuel cap and have the helper cycle the key all the way on for three seconds and off for four seconds. If the fuel pump cannot be heard, try one more test for accuracy. Remove the air intake duct to the throttle body. Hold the throttle linkage open. Squirt a good shot of carburetor cleaner into the intake manifold and retry. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds, the fuel pump has failed. If it still does not start, check the ignition.
Pull a spark plug wire off a spark plug. Insert the test spark plug and lay it on the intake or block where it will be grounded. Have the helper try to start the engine and watch the spark plug. A good spark indicates a problem internally in the engine. No spark means the ignition system is at fault.