Topic: Audi A4 Best OEM battery replacement and coding.
Car model: Audi A4
Symptom: left my car in covered storage for 3 months, was in a rush and forgot to disconnect the battery before flying home. The car was running perfectly fine before leaving, when I got back, the battery was completely dead. It took two jumper boxes (battery and under the hood) to get the car running. Now, I need to jump it every time I drive.
Option 1: Called Audi to inquire about replacing the battery, they quoted me a ridiculous $600 (apparently it takes them 2.5 hours of labor to replace and code a battery).
Option 2: AutoZone charges $150, but can’t code it. Sears said they could replace and “register” the battery for $280.
Option 3: I ditched my OEM (Varta) battery a month ago, installed an Odyssey PC-1350 and never looked back.
You can run different batteries in these vehicles. Don’t let the dealers b/s you.
If you really need to code the battery buy a foxwell NT530 . Bang for the buck you can’t beat it for $200. It does battery coding, channel adaptation (used it for green menu access), and rear brake caliper functions (for pad changes)
As a mechanic, i have VCDS, a Snap-On Zeus, and the foxwell scanner. I wear the heck out of the foxwell scanner. It’s just cheap, and it works great.
My only caveat, some of the letters on the screen are a bit tiny. Hitting middle age, and going blind…. Ha!
Replaced my battery in my 2014 b8.5 last night. Had a 15% off coupon for battery and installation from the Audi dealer so I got the battery for $180 and I took it home and popped it in. Wasn’t sure I was gonna code it but it was actually really simple.
Everything you need is on the battery it’s self. The the part number is on the top and the serial number is visible if you use your smartphone camera to look at the square qr code on the back. I did the coding in my obdeleven app with my smart phone. I have yet to find a single think that my obdeleven can’t do compared to vag-com.
Before and after screen shots below: